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Postby sonyaany » Fri Jul 15, 2016 10:16 am

Rebuild a bicycle rear hub

Designs may vary between manufacturers, but the basic principal remains amongst many others. Some information provided here applies to ALL bicycle hub bearings in general, so this is worth a once over by those interested in DIY bicycle maintenance.

Since I lack the specialty tools, and you might not have $25 to spend on each tool required as well, I will demonstrate my method Cheap Nike Air Max 2016 for you to try at your own risk.

Please review the entire project before attempting to start this for the first time, and be meticulously clean with your workspace. Hair, lint, and dust can undermine the whole of this project, so treat this as a surgical procedure. Effort taken now toward perfection saves effort later walking home and getting new parts later on.

The picture will show you a cross section of the typical Hyperglide freehub used in this project. I will make reference to the color coding in following steps and reference this image again. USE THESE METHODS AT YOUR OWN RISK. Many of these parts are made of case hardened steel / triple tempered Chromium Molybdenum, which is very to extremely brittle. Use eye protection and great care when exerting stress on these parts with the dictated method. Use the minimum force possible and do not put the face or the eyes within view of brittle parts or serious injury will result. My apologies for the blurry pix, but you should get the idea. Attempt this only with a laced (already complete) wheel. NEVER clamp a freehub in a vice for ANY reason, or any part of it thereof.

If you have read this far, I take it you are serious about doing this as safely as possible without all of the specialty tools, and understand the risks.

I lack a photo for now as my camera is being a retard, I hope to upload it soon. For the right handed wheel, this is the same "righty tighty / lefty loosey" method, so force the freehub lockring to turn counter clockwise.

Hey Prometheus I do like the reassembly and has helped a lot in my doing this, but am surprised you didn include a section on inspecting bearing surfaces before reassembly!!

Anyway what I do to inspect:

1) inspection breakout magnifying devices and have a close look Nike Air Max 2016 at the surfaces and note the pits and holes in the cups and cones!

2) inspection drag little finger nail across bearing surface and feel for the scratching of the pits.

After frightening self into realising this hub would very quickly fail and now convinced that this hub is well and truly broken, explore options for a new hub and wheel rebuild . and instructable!

It is, and the procedure is far more simple. Once you remove the axle, you can simply pull them free and insert new bearings. I prefer cartridge bearing hubs due to their long life and superb rebuild ability. Cartridge bearing hubs are the pinnacle of cycling technology, so if you have them, keep them. They require no adjustment, little service, and the bearings are completely replaceable, making the hub a lifetime investment that is worth more than the bike itself sometimes.

A typical hub with cone bearings can last you 5 7 years. A cartridge bearing hub can last you as much as 50 years or at least 10 times the mileage if properly maintained.

Sounds more like a broken pawl or pawl spring, which are not engaging positively into the lands of the freewheel (which I would suspect if it "slips" and it not the chain).

Just be sure it the cluster slipping and not the chain. If the derailler is improperly adjusted or damaged, it won stay in gear, which can lead to a sprung chain (twisted), and/or tooth loss. Also check to see that the teeth themselves aren "hooked" on the derailler pulleys, or that you don have a sticking link in the chain (both a cause and an effect for a similar issue)

I tear it down, but from what it sounds like, it prolly pretty chewed up in there. Spin it backwards and listen: the click should be crisp. The rotation should be smooth without an excess of noise. The "play" in the cluster should be minimal, where no tooth can deviate more than 1 2mm out of the typical chainline.

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